HOW TO GET RID OF GRUB WORMS OUT OF YOUR LAWN

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How to Get Rid of Grub worms Out of Your Lawn


 How to Get Rid of Grub worms Out of Your Lawn
 
A healthy lawn should support the home and garden you’ve worked so hard to shape and nurture. Maintaining a lush green lawn requires more than consistent watering and weekly pruning.

 Getting the best lawn in the area is worth it, but it can also attract more than envious neighbors. Insects and other pests can also notice and change the green light of your lawn, moving it slightly to yellow. Dry or dead spots on your lawn can be caused by many things, from improper watering to fungus and other types of insects such as grub worms

 
Grubs are short-lived, white-colored beet bugs that feed on the roots of beets and are a common problem in lawns in the Intermountain West. They are picky eaters in the summer and even in the fall, but they can be stopped.


This is a common sign of how to treat and prevent grubs in the future. 

What is Grub worm?

They’re called scary little animals that can eat in your garden. These are insect larvae that hatch from the eggs of bugs, monkeys or other insects that eat the roots of the grass, killing the lawn in the process.


Billbug larvae are legless and have a cream-colored body. Their appearance has been described as “a grain of rice with a brown head.” On the other hand, those who are white are white in color with a brownish orange head and six feet in front of their body. White skin is type C and their body is smooth and shiny.

 Billbugs begin their life cycle with adult Billbugs laying their eggs in April and early May (first in southern Utah). Shortly after hatching, Billbug larvae begin to eat the crown of the grass, eventually burrowing into the soil and beginning to attack the roots of your lawn. Billbug turf damage will be evident from late June to the first of July, initially in southern Utah.
 
White weed, which is a June weed, is a devastating pest of lawns in Utah and the Intermountain West. Whereas June requires three years to complete a generation or life cycle. Adults begin to emerge from the turf in May and June, and during their first summer, mated females will lay their eggs on the turf. The eggs hatch into small white worms that feed on the roots of the growing plant until the temperature cools. These small larvae overwinter until the next spring, when they are active again. 

During the second summer, the larvae continue to grow as they feed on the roots of larger plants until they are almost fully grown. Larger larvae will continue to the next winter stage. During the third summer, the caterpillar pupates on the ground, then emerges as an adult somewhere in May and June.


3 Signs of Grub Damage on lawn

If your lawn is starting to show signs of damage, it is important to identify and treat the affected area as soon as possible. 


1. Unsightly dry patches in lawns can be caused by many things besides lawn damage, such as improper or inconsistent watering, fungus, or compacted soil. If the larvae are suspected, it is recommended to test the hand. To perform a pull test, pull the weed from the damaged area of ​​your lawn. If you have to break quickly and break on the ground, look at the bottom edge and you will see if there is something good, powdery, almost like sawdust. This white powdery substance is called feces, which is what Billbugs leave behind.

 To determine if you really have a Billbug problem, cut a piece of grass about 3 inches deep where the damaged grass meets the healthy area. Carefully divide the sample and analyze it carefully. This is where Billbug larvae can be found active and if so, immediate action is necessary.
To check for grass damage from grubs, grab a section of dead or severely damaged grass and pull it off. The grass will loosen completely, as the worms have cut the roots and the grass can be pulled up like a carpet, exposing the C block underneath.


2. Dyed, discolored or stressed grass that does not respond to irrigation can also be evidence that your lawn has been damaged by weeds. To make sure that the cause is not a lack of water, turn on the sprinklers in areas of the lawn that show stress. Make sure there are no covered water nozzles or uncovered sprinklers in the affected area. If you find that this is the case, make the necessary changes to the sprinkler system to correct the problem. The ideal amount of water is ½” of water per flush. The tuna can be used to gauge the amount during the flush. 

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3. Your large lawn can be damaged by skunks, raccoons or other animals that try to dig up the lawn for their next meal. 


How to Control Grub Worms Naturally

Grub worms damage your lawn by feeding on the roots and eventually grow into large areas that eat the leaves of other valuable plants in your garden. Many homeowners use pest control chemicals, or insecticides, to treat their lawns once or twice a year. But there are also many natural methods that can be effective in eliminating toxins.

 1. Beneficial terrestrial nematodes seek out and kill larvae and other soil-dwelling insects. They come in the form of a sponge (invisible and invisible) that you put in water, put in a sprayer and mist your soil or grass. They will multiply over time and continue to kill the larvae. They also contain nematodes that seek to destroy flea larvae. This is what one reader says about their experience with nematodes:  Buy nematodes on Amazon

2. I control the larvae well using only organic fertilizers once in the fall and once in the winter. Synthetic fertilizers often kill beneficial nematodes.

3. Neem oil. Mix as directed with water and spray anywhere that affects your lawn to prevent egg laying and larvae to feed.

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